Middleburg.
What do I know of Middleburg?
Not much except it has beautiful land and huge, expensive homes.
I know the former and BEST owner of the Washington Redskins, Jack Kent Cooke, lived there and so did a lot of Redskins players back in the day. Some probably still do.
I know it's horse country and I've dined and stayed overnight at the Red Fox Inn.
That's about it.
Well, a few weekends ago, I found out some other things to add to my knowledge of Middleburg.
Let me set the scene.
Adorned in a halter top, frayed jeans, black wedge-heeled boots with a hint of camo, and big, black Jackie O sunglasses, I ventured out into Middleburg on the Harley with my favorite guy.
It was a 90 degree day with no humidity, the sky was cloudless blue and a huge smile was naturally plastered on my face.
The first stop in Middleburg was Cana Winery and Vineyards (
http://canavineyards.com/). The story behind the name interested me. Jesus performed the first of many of his miracles at a wedding feast in Cana of Galilee. He turned water into wine.
I heard of Cana through the coupon map that Loudoun County puts out for marketing of wineries. There was a "two tastings for the price of one" coupon and, since I love a good deal, I researched a little about this new winery. The wines listed on Cana's website made me hopeful. There were a lot of reds I already had my mind set on trying and even a few interesting whites! We had already stopped at Quattro Goomba's and Cana was less than five minutes away, so we might as well cruise on over since we were in the neighborhood, right?
When our helpful GPS told us to turn right to arrive at our destination we were blown away. At the end of a very long and steep GRAVEL driveway, was this monstrously gorgeous two-level winery. Tell me one thing though....could they not afford to PAVE the driveway?!
Ironically, there wasn't a suggestions box available....
As we parked the Harley, we were surrounded by pristine grounds, a covered stone patio and young fenced-in vines.
We entered the winery at the ground level and were presented with a spiral staircase that led upstairs to a room most likely used for private seated events like rehearsal dinners or business functions and holiday parties. Both levels had an outdoor deck the length of the entire winery. We approached what I thought was the tasting table and were greeted by an older gentleman who asked if he could help us. Uh yes, a room for the night, please? No? Ok then. Upon requesting a tasting, he gave us two cards, took our $10 (after looking down his nose at me for having the audacity to present a coupon) and then told us Chelsea would help us outside at the tasting table at the end to the right. Uh, ok. Didn't know this was a ticketed event. Oh, it's not? Hmmmm....
I'm sure when we turned our backs he was not happy with our attire either.
God forbid, he find out we rolled up on a motorcycle.
Gasp!
Hoodlums!
Once outside, we joined a group who was just about to start a tasting and God forbid, it wasn't Chelsea's tasting table, but shhh... don't tell anyone.
To my disappointment, we only tried one decent red, a Merlot, which to my surprise was actually quite delicious. We tried a Gewürztraminer (or Girlsaremeaner, as I call them), a Vidal Blanc, a Rose, a Chambourcin and two fruit wines which tasted like water for the most part. Cana's website intrigued me with its Rhapsody in Red (Pinot, Cab Franc, Cab blend), Touriga and Le Mariage (Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cab blend). I would even have been excited at this point to taste the well-known, every-VA-winery-has-one, green pepper red, Cab Franc, but no...... No such luck for me that day.
I had such high hopes for the wine at Cana and was so very disappointed. Perhaps they changed the tasting sheet as soon as they heard the riff raff come up the drive on the motorcycle....
All was not lost. The Merlot was good, the view from the "palace" located on the knoll which overlooks the Bull Run Mountains to the southeast and the Blue Ridge to the west was lovely, and the company was quite fantastic.
Since we didn't take up much time at Cana, we decided to stop by Greenhill Winery and Vineyards which was only a mile away.
Pleased to be presented with a paved road leading to Greenhill, we eagerly trudged along in hopes that perhaps this winery would present better wines. Having vineyards on each side of the road and as far as you could see was a good sign, one would hope.
As I got off the bike and surveyed the area, I had a strange feeling that I had been there before but I knew I hadn't. Wait, or had I?
I swore that it was an afternoon in November and Prowler had been romping over yonder with a stranger's football.
Was I dreaming?
Once inside, I still felt that familiar but different feeling and it hit me.
This used to be Swedenburg Vineyards and our lovely, but paranoid and nervous staff member, Mary, confirmed that I was indeed right and the property was sold to Greenhill two years ago.
Swedenburg was a delightful winery with beautiful grounds and an enjoyable mulled wine. There was nothing fancy about Swedenburg; just an easy going comfortable winery. Upgrades to the tasting room have been made and it is definitely prettier and more upscale in appearance. The wine has also definitely improved with Greenhill's takeover.
Unfortunately, the pretentious clientele leaves a lot to be desired.
When we entered the tiny but pristine tasting room, we instantly felt like we had walked into a different world. I tend to fit in anywhere I go and have no problem with that. I like people for who they are; not what they look like or where they are from. However, walking into this tasting room made me uncomfortable for a split second and then my humor took over. I'm sorry I didn't wear my five inch heels or my prom dress to today's winery extravaganza. In case you were wondering, I don't hold my pinky up in the air when I sip wine either.
We walked up to the tasting bar and had to wait until there was space available which was not a problem. When it was our turn, a frantic, timid and nervous Mary served us. It was almost as if the principal had threatened Mary with a long wooden ruler an hour before we got there and she was fearful of it happening again. I decided to tell Mary to relax and that we were the last people she needed to be concerned about impressing. She seemed relieved but still on edge.
Greenhill uses laminated wine cards as tasting sheets which are quite interesting.
There was some spilled wine left over from the previous taster on my card!
GASP!
Whatever shall I do?
Demand a new one?
Uh, no... seriously? Not a big deal.
I'm here to taste wine, people! Let's do this already!
While Greenhill's tasting is a whopping $14 a person, it's one of those things we didn't regret but would probably only partake of once. However, I have never spent more than $10 for a tasting!
If I did, I'd receive something special in return - like food perhaps or the wines would be of the high-end variety.
After all, we are in Middleburg....
Nevertheless here we go with the whites....
Blanc de Blancs - a sparkling Chardonnay
I LOVE Chardonnay and DESPISE sparkling anything. This surprised me and was rather pleasant.
Seyval Blanc - Again, to my surprise, this citrus/pineapple/almond wine was quite delightful. I'm used to this French-American hybrid grape being on the sweet side with 0.7% residual sugar but this estate wine of Greenhill's was not as sweet as previous ones I've tried.
Riesling - A dry, stainless steel estate grown wine with nice acidity, crisp mouth feel and light hints of refreshing mandarin and lime. It didn't take long for my favorite guy and I to both have the same reaction to this wine - YES!! We both thoroughly enjoyed it and while we waited until we had tasted all the wines, we chose this one to purchase and take home! My dad is a huge Riesling fan and there was no doubt we'd save this to share with him on a hot summer day at the beach house. Not many of our local wineries make Rieslings and if they do branch out, they are typically on the sickening sweet side. I enjoy a delicious, dry Riesling that is made in the proper style.
Way to go, Greenhill!
Chardonnay - a pleasing Chardonnay, especially for this area. It's barrel fermented for 11 months in French oak with aromas of hazelnut and toast - lots of toast. It was good but not $36 good.
Quite interesting selection of whites that are produced here at Greenhill.
So far, I was quite satisfied.
Before I go on to the reds, let me explain what was going on around us to set the tone.
About eight people can comfortably fit around the L-shaped tasting bar. To the right of us was the cash register which was quite obnoxious especially when my frazzled Mary had to pour for us and handle the register at the same time. Hard to multi-task when you're terrified. To the left of us was a 20-something year old couple who thought their shit didn't stink. Yep, I just said that. The dude had on a hideous ironed plaid pastel shirt with chinos and loafers. The chick had on a sundress and a nose aimed to the heavens in which she used to look down on us. The irony is that if she knew her bra straps were showing from the back she probably would have had a heart attack.
I could have told her but naw.....
My favorite guy said he didn't know CPR and I said she wouldn't dare want his nasty motorcycle- riding breath to save her anyway. She'd rather die, I'm sure. She probably thought the sparkling chardonnay was divine. I think I just threw up in my mouth a little.
At most wineries, I end up making friends. Shocker, huh? I am my father's daughter after all.
It doesn't take much for me to carry on a conversation with someone anyway but put me in an atmosphere with wine and I'll make new friends pretty instantly.
That changed at the Middleburg wineries.
Did it bother me? Not at all, just making an observation.
Now for the four reds...
I was disappointed that we couldn't try the Syrah. However, since they were out of Syrah, we would be able to revisit a previous wine in its place.
Superstition - Being 80% Mouvedre and 20% Tannat, I was super excited to try this one! Absolutely delicious with sweet and spicy tones of cherry, blackberry and clove. I could drink this one with much ease!
Ontology - a dark and smoky Chambourcin that has a beautiful earthy aroma and a dark cherry and raspberry flavor.
Philosophy - 80% Merlot, 20% Cab Franc. Our sweet Mary had to take on another task at this point and another staff member (we'll call her Louise) took over. She quickly told us that this red wine was made in the "right bank style" with a tone as if we should be highly impressed.
For once, I kept my mouth shut and let it go.
What the hell did that mean?
Right bank style? Is there a wrong bank style?
I later found out that the Right Bank is the area to the north of the Dordogne in Bordeaux. Lighter, smoother styles of red wine are produced on the Right Bank as opposed to the layered, intense and complex wines of the Left Bank.
Wow, I felt so much better after finding that bit of information out (enter sarcastic tone here.).
I shed a tear when I found out (yeah right), our fancy-pants couple to the left of us had been replaced by a tank top and shorts-wearing pair of ladies. At this point in time, we were done with the tasting and waiting to get our final sip of the extra one when something comical occurred.
Louise, the one who took over Mary's duties, had given the new ladies empty glasses to start their tasting and one of the glasses had a Reeses peanut butter cup wrapper in it.
Well, you'd thought the world had come to an end.
No one seemed miffed by it except Louise who was mortified.
Seriously?
We joked that the wine would now have a hint of peanut butter!
No one seemed to find that humorous except for us... of course.
Louise, full of panic, then offered to give us another taste of whatever we wanted as a bribe.
She was terrified that we would write a review on Yelp! about the candy wrapper.
I can't make this nonsense up!
I don't know who is terrifying the staff at Greenhill but they really need to lay off.
Their wine is really good and it can speak for itself.
We bought our bottle of Riesling, paid our outrageous tasting fees and walked out shaking our heads. We cranked up the Harley, turned some more heads and rode back to the 'Bridge where we belong!
I can only imagine what everyone was saying about us as we left.
The funny thing is I didn't even care. We had a fantastic day, finally drank some delicious wine and had such unexpected comic relief.
Hey, Middleburg, winos!
Pretentious, much?
"Wine makes a man more pleased with himself. I do not say that it makes him more pleasing to others."
- Samuel Johnson
Thankfully, there's a Zac Brown Band song that strongly speaks to me. The moment I heard it, a few months ago on the new cd, I instantly thought of my ladybug. I was lucky enough to hear him play this live earlier this month and as the tears rolled down my face, I looked up at the clear night sky and felt as if she was here with me in that exact moment. Extremely powerful.
